Credit: Alexis Larsen
Credit: Alexis Larsen
The light, satisfying cocktail, created by bartender Louis Connelly, danced around with a beautiful, light flavor and was garnished with a simple small basil leaf. It was lovely and delicate, pairing wonderfully with an Asian ground pork lettuce wrap also flavored simply with oyster sauce, sweet bell peppers, water chestnuts, cilantro and lime. The cocktail was a standout as was the pairing, both standing up on unaltered beautiful flavors that worked together in a simplistic unison of harmony.
Wheat Penny’s “Blowin’ smoke” smoked cocktail and Dewberry 1850′s nuanced, layered and endlessly interesting cocktail “The Dewberry Duvall” took home runner up prizes from the judges for their skilled mixology.
Mr. Boro’s Tavern in Springboro took home the People’s Choice prize from the crowd who all had a great time voting, and the judges awarded Mr. Boro’s Tavern the best pairing of the evening for its robust and flavorful Boro Bloody Mary paired with their rich, crunchy and addictive “Balasmic Banger” grilled cheese with balsamic onion jam, smoked Gouda and peppered bacon.
Here are takeaways from the event:
Credit: Alexis Larsen
Credit: Alexis Larsen
1) 2023 Defending Champion Thomas Morris, Wheat Penny’s Bar Manager, is a talented mixologist worth seeking out. His cocktail this year was the “Blowin’ Smoke,” a play on a Carajillo, a classic Mexican espresso. For his version, he smoked the vodka in the meat smoker with a little bit of hay.
To that he added Licor 43, Cara Negra Café, decaf cold brew, blood orange and a little bit of saline to bring out more flavor. It was a deep, complicated, entry that was steeped in history, research and creativity. His smoky drink was a great foil to the smoked beef brisket taco and smoked lion’s mane mushroom tacos it was served with.
Credit: Alexis Larsen
Credit: Alexis Larsen
2) The Florentine is worth considering a visit. It is under new ownership, with a new chef and a brand new menu since late last year. Chef Dan Calton who started in November brought his A-game with his “Mango Chopwich” made with a grilled pork ribeye he carefully injected bacon fat into, covered with a housemade mango BBQ sauce, served on a Knotted Brioche Bun topped with pickle, bacon and coleslaw. It was delicious. There’s no doubt I will be visiting soon to see what else is coming out of Chef Dan’s kitchen. I spoke with him briefly and his comments to me spoke to his personability and passion for what he does.
“I’m putting myself on the plate for people and that’s what I live to do ... my menu is definitely a collaboration of all the pain, the heartache and all the blood, sweat and tears that took me to be where I am today, and to finally be able to put out the menu that I wanted is one of the greatest successes of my career,” said Calton.
Credit: Alexis Larsen
Credit: Alexis Larsen
3) Mr. Boro’s Tavern is a worthy weekend stop option. Their “Balsamic Banger” grilled cheese with balsamic onion jam, smoked Gouda and peppered bacon was the bomb and paired perfectly with the Boro Bloody Mary they offer on their regular menu. Perfect for a lazy Saturday or Sunday Funday, this is the spot to go to relax and chill with satisfying elevated comfort food that delivers fantastic flavor.
Credit: Alexis Larsen
Credit: Alexis Larsen
4) Manna Uptown is bringing an elevated experience to diners daily and to events like these. Three words: Gold. Dusted. Strawberries. Bartender Jackson Wolph took his cocktail inspiration from a Charles Dickens novel. It is the life and times of Martin Chuzzlewit, in which the main character enjoys the variety of cherry cobblers. Wolph decided to riff on the story with a cocktail muddling strawberries and raspberries with Contrabandista sherry, blackstrap rum, lemon, mint, watermelon infused bitters and a candy cap mushroom syrup ... yes, a mushroom syrup. It was all smoked with hickory.
The result was a deep, smoky, moody, dark, delicious symphony of harmonious flavors. The presentation for the drink — complete with gold dusted strawberries —was the best cocktail presentations I’ve seen in ages and the creativity on display was driven by passion. This is food and personalities that are contagious to be around.
Credit: Alexis Larsen
Credit: Alexis Larsen
5) It was hard work choosing the winners. Chef Gavin St. Denis and his sous chef Blessing Henderson brought another of my favorite pairings and continue to impress. Late last year the duo took home top prize at the Diced in Dayton Chef’s Challenge event and proved themselves as a creative quick-thinking power house in the kitchen. For this challenge they brought a gochujang-pear chicken and coconut rice dish topped with pickled carrot and onion paired with a rocks glass filled with vodka, pear simple syrup, hot honey, burned lime, soda water and cilantro. The parallel flavors made for a duo that held hand and hand while they were being sampled.
They may not have made the final list of winners but there was much discussion over what they did and it was one of several that were in contention. It speaks to how fantastic the restaurants at this event were.
6) This year’s winner joins a list of very worthy and impressive former Battle of the Bartender winners:
2023: Defending Champion: Thomas Morris, Wheat Penny, “Stop and Smell the Roses”
2020: Roland Eliason, The Winds “Gold Blooded”
2019: Carolyn Porter, Wheat Penny “Dutchess of Earl”
2018: Brock McKibben, Wheat Penny " Merchant’s Wife”
2017: Bill Castro, El Meson “Tamiami Miami”
2016: Nikolaus Hunt, Coco’s Bistro “Coco’s Ruby Slipper”
2015: Amber Brady, Lily’s Bistro “Rosemary’s Babee”
2014: Dustin Wade, Meadowlark “The Root of All Evil”
“It was another really great year to see the talent that our restaurants have both in the kitchen and behind the bar,” said Amy Zahora, Miami Valley Restaurant Association executive director. “We can’t wait to see what Year 10 brings.”
* Fish sauce in a cocktail? Garum, a fermented fish sauce dating back as far as the fourth Century BC, was used like ketchup is today in ancient Greece and Rome. It was used in both food and cocktails.
Dayton Eats looks at the regional food stories and restaurant news that make mouths water. Menu updates, special dinners and events, new chefs, interesting new dishes and culinary adventures. Do you know of new exciting format changes, specials, happy hours, restaurant updates or any other tasty news you think is worth a closer look at? E-mail Alexis Larsen at alexis.e.larsen@hotmail.com with the information and we will work to include it in future coverage.
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