Ask a Cook: Dutch-processed cocoa doesn’t work in all recipes

You can swap natural cocoa for Dutch-processed cocoa and the recipe will still work, but you can’t go the other way — swapping Dutch for natural — without risking that you won’t get a chemical reaction. You might end up with very flat cookies or a cake that doesn’t rise as high.

Just swapping baking soda for baking powder is tricky, because the amounts won’t be the same. You might have to replace the baking soda with twice as much baking powder if you use Dutch-processed cocoa.

Dutch-processed cocoa is darker in color, which can make it seem like it has more chocolate flavor. But natural cocoa has a fruitier flavor that works better in some dishes.