The stock couldn’t be easier to make: Simmer Parmesan rinds in water for a couple of hours with some aromatics, then strain and chill the liquid. I recommend that you make it a day ahead so you can remove the waxy layer of fat that settles at the top once the stock has chilled.
The concentrated stock really does have the texture, and even hints at the flavor, of a chicken stock. It’s not vegan, of course, but if you eat cheese, you’ll find that it’s a perfect vegetarian stock to use for risotto. And no risotto will show it off better than this simple, elegant risotto Milanese.
Risotto Milanese with Parmesan Stock
Time: 30 minutes
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
Ingredients
For the broth:
12 ounces Parmesan rinds
1 bay leaf
2 sprigs thyme
3 sprigs parsley
3 garlic cloves, crushed
Salt
For the risotto:
6 to 7 cups Parmesan broth, as needed
1/2 teaspoon saffron threads
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 cup finely chopped onion
Salt
1 1/2 cups Arborio or Carnaroli rice
1/2 cup dry white wine
Black pepper
1 tablespoon butter
1/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan
Preparation
1. Make stock: Place Parmesan rinds, bay leaf and thyme in a soup pot or large heavy saucepan and add 3 quarts water. Bring to a simmer. Skim off foam, cover partly and simmer 1 hour over very low heat. Add parsley and garlic cloves and continue to simmer 30 minutes, partly covered. Uncover, add salt to taste, and simmer another 30 minutes.
2. Line a strainer with cheesecloth and place over a large bowl. Strain stock into bowl. Refrigerate it, preferably overnight. Before reheating, remove fat from top and discard. You should have about 2 quarts broth.
3. Pour broth into a saucepan and bring to a simmer. Make sure that it is well seasoned but not overly seasoned, as it will reduce and become saltier. Put saffron in a small bowl and cover with 1 tablespoon hot water.
4. Heat olive oil over medium heat in a wide heavy skillet or saucepan. Add onion and a generous pinch of salt and cook until onion is just tender, about 3 minutes. Do not brown. Add rice and stir just until grains begin to crackle, 1 to 2 minutes. Add wine and cook, stirring, until it has been absorbed.
5. Begin adding simmering broth, a couple of ladles at a time. Add saffron with soaking water with first addition of broth. Broth should just cover the rice and should be bubbling. Stir often and vigorously. When broth has just about evaporated, add another ladle or 2 to just cover rice. Continue to cook in this way until rice is al dente, about 20 to 25 minutes. Add a little pepper, taste and adjust seasoning.
6. Add another ladleful of broth to the rice. Stir in butter and Parmesan and remove from heat. Mixture should be creamy. Serve right away.
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