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Fifth Street Brewpub
1600 E. Fifth St.
(937) 443-0919
Since we heard the news that Fifth Street Brewpub was expanding its menu options last December, we knew we had to get out there to see what they were cooking up.
The brewery, less than four years old and nestled into St. Anne's Hill, is more well-known for being the area's only brew co-op — meaning it is member-owned, with over 3,000 member-owners and counting — for its guest bartending events on Monday nights, and for its wide variety of craft brews on rotating taps, both housemade, local and regional. Until last winter, the Brewpub offered a limited menu of small appetizers, soups, salads and sandwiches, but were restricted by a small kitchen with only one panini press and two convection ovens.
Now, the kitchen has expanded to include a flat-top grill and a deep fat fryer, and Executive Chef Brandon Travis is able to really get creative. We had already re-introduced ourselves with Fifth Street's two Saratoga Chip plates, which had been gone from the menu for some time but now, happily, have returned.
On this visit, we opted for the Asian Lettuce Wraps ($9), a longtime popular appetizer. You can choose between shredded chicken, pork or vegetarian; we went with the shredded pork, slow-braised and melt-in-your-mouth sumptuous, topped with Fifth Street's signature cilantro-lime dressing, sesame seeds, julienne carrots and diced scallion. Served with a sweet soy dipping sauce and iceberg lettuce wraps, this plate is big enough to split between four people for a fantastic starter without ruining your appetite. The menu recommends you ask for a side of spicy asian mustard to complement the sweet soy sauce; we forgot to do so. We're sure it would have been a great addition, but even without, the dish tastefully combined sweet and savory, chill and crisp with warm and melty.
Now that Fifth Street has more cooking area, the variety of specials has expanded; on the day we visited, our server recommended a meatloaf special that sounded divine, served with mashed potatoes and JoJo's Stout Gravy. Though we didn't order it this time, I'll be looking out for it upon our next visit. Instead, we went with the new Build-a-Burger option ($9), a half-pound fresh, never frozen USDA Prime Ground Beef Burger, served on a toasted brioche bun with LTO and pickles on the side. Extra toppings cost a little more: We went with provolone, caramelized onions and a fried egg. The burger was grilled just right to a medium/medium rare, with each topping in perfect proportion and served with the beloved Saratoga chips (ask for a side of house aioli: perfect on the chips and the burger) and a crispy, flavorful red wine vinaigrette coleslaw on the side for a balanced, filling meal.
We also chose the tried-and-true Veggie-tarian ($8), which highlights the brewpub's delicious homemade black bean hummus, available as an appetizer with pita bread. The creamy black bean-infused hummus is wrapped up with a tasty corn and pepper relish, cheddar cheese, lettuce, tomato and cilantro-lime dressing, and served hot and toasted in a cheddar-jalapeño tortilla. When you're looking to be healthy but still want something hearty and flavorful, the Veggie-tarian delivers. It was polished off with gusto, and left us perfectly satiated after the last bite. Instead of chips, we subbed in the Roasted Red Pepper and Smoked Gouda soup ($2.50 as a substitution, $4 for a bowl), which is the perfect soup for a wintery night: creamy, with just a touch of heat from the fire-roasted red peppers, and garnished delicately with shredded smoked Gouda.
Needless to say, all of our food was paired deliciously with Fifth Street's drafts. Though we didn't choose specific food and beer pairings, you can ask your server for their personal recommendations. If you can't decide on a beer, then by all means, try a full flight and celebrate your indecisiveness.
Fifth Street Brewpub is rightly known for its friendly atmosphere, happy worker/owners, and delicious beers, but it's time that its kitchen became more recognized for the delicious, unique and sustaining options on the menu. Next time you venture down East Fifth Street, don't just come with a desire to drink; come with a hearty appetite.
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