La Vigna is a bit of a one-man show, and it’s still in its infancy: Hively purchased the property in 2002, planted his first vines in 2004, and celebrated the winery’s grand opening a scant 14 months ago. But based on a July 1 tasting of Hively’s three current releases at the Englewood Kroger Marketplace, this is a winery well worth watching.
Along with nearby wineries Kinkead Ridge, Meranda-Nixon and Harmony Hill, La Vigna Estate Winery represents further validation that southern Ohio can grow and produce world-class wines.
The most impressive of La Vigna’s current lineup is the 2008 La Vigna Proprietary Red Wine ($23.99), consisting of 90 percent cabernet franc and 10 percent cabernet sauvignon. This dry red is broad and rich, showing a depth of flavor that will surprise those who haven’t kept up with the winemaking renaissance occurring in various pockets of Ohio. And it comes from one of the state’s strongest vintages in recent memory — Hively says the wine virtually made itself, and he knew enough to stay out of the way of the grapes harvested at perfect ripeness.
His 2009 Carnevale ($11.99) red wine is impressive for a different reason: The ’09 vintage was cool, wet and difficult, and Hively said he engaged in some serious winemaking to craft a high-quality red, including his decision to essentially abandon his entire cabernet sauvignon crop because it didn’t ripen fully. The Carnevale is thus 100 percent cabernet franc, made in a European style with refreshing acidity and just enough fruit to balance.
The 2010 La Vigna Proprietary White Wine ($11.99 for a half-bottle) is made from the relatively obscure Petite Manseng, a varietal that hails from southwest France and which Hively described as his winery’s “signature wine.” Hively’s previous vintages were made in a drier style, but the ripeness of the 2010 vintage prompted the winemaker to make this wine in a sweeter late-harvest style. It is frankly sweet and not fortified, but has a 15 percent alcohol level — a Sauternes-style wine with a punch.
This summer, Hively is planting more European grape varietals to enhance his ability to make dry white wines. He’s starting with Albarino, with plans to add Gruner Veltliner and Viognier.
He has vowed to sell only wines made from his own estate-grown grapes, but the new vineyards of white varietals, like other freshly planted vineyards, will take at least three years to produce a usable crop. He says he can’t wait to take a crack at the new varieties.
Some hobby.
If you go: La Vigna Estate Winery is open to the public for tastings on Saturdays only, noon to 6 p.m., through Labor Day. The winery is located at 6035 Ohio 505, Georgetown. For more information, call (937) 375-1104 or visit www.lavignaestatewinery.com.
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